international women's day
Female bartenders who are shaking up the bar scene in Singapore
Don't ask her if you can buy her a drink, ask her what's in that drink. She's in charge, after all. The emergence of women fronting male dominated professions like bartending, is no longer deemed ground-breaking, but has gradually seeped into normality. There was however, the transition of public opinion. These five bartenders tell their personal stories.
SYMPHONY LOO,
CAMPARI AMBASSADOR

Tell us how you did you end up bartending as a career?
I have been in the hospitality line for about 14 years. While I was in the Four Seasons Singapore, the bar manager took me under his wing and I think I was just influenced by his passion for bartending. That inspired me to be a great bartender.


What are some challenges that you have faced, being a female bartender?
It's hard work, physically and mentally, for both female and male bartenders. Long hours, short and unpolished nails, same outfit every day — the list goes on.


What is the most sexist remark you have received?
It was when I started to become a bartender, there was a guest who refused to let me make a martini for him. He was convinced that my male colleague's martini would taste better. However, I ended up making the drink with my male colleague serving him hence he was happy about it. In the end, my colleague told him: "She made that drink."


In a male dominated industry, how do you think female bartenders can thrive and excel?
When I started out in the bar at Four Seasons Singapore, it was quite tough. Four years ago, there were maybe only ten female bartenders working in Singapore. At the hotel, customers didn't always take me seriously until I made a drink. In this industry, you just have to prove yourself.


What's your signature drink to make?
Negroni! No one loves bitterness, so when I first came across this drink, I hated it.

But when I started to understand the complexity of the flavours, I grew to love it and also be more daring towards the flavours in a drink. Guess what? I now have a negroni tattoo on my left arm.


A word of advice to aspiring female bartenders.
Be humble. Love what you do, do what you love.
JAYDEN ONG,
SENIOR BARTENDER AT NUTMEG & CLOVE

Tell us how you did you end up bartending as a career?
My friend brought me to a cocktail bar in university, opening my eyes to the world of craft cocktails. A random idea just popped up in my head as I was studying for my final exams in my last semester at NUS and I submitted an email to the Jigger and Pony group to ask if they had a cocktail apprentice role for me. Fortunately they had an open spot and I got a job at Sugarhall, a popular rum restaurant bar at that time.


What are some challenges that you have faced, being a female bartender?
I don't feel like I am at a disadvantage. In fact, I feel like being a female bartender in a male-dominated industry is well celebrated now. We have to thank the conversations that people have started, about equality in a male-dominated industry.


What is the most sexist remark you have received?
One comment commonly made is, "Hey that looks like a girly drink that you have served me". To that I always like to reply, "There is no such thing as a girly drink, my dear." The idea that girls like pink and boys like blue — that sort of gender stereotyping to me seems a little unhealthy and we should all move on from that and embrace ourselves as individuals first.


In a male dominated industry, how do you think female bartenders can thrive and excel?
My experience has been a very pleasant one, I feel like I have been given equal opportunities as my male peers. Furthermore, there is a strong sense of sisterhood in the bartending industry. I have participated in an all-female speed cocktail competition called Speed Rack that was founded by two female bartenders in the U.S.

Female bartenders can thrive if we work on ourselves as individuals and constantly be involved with the community. Be present and engaged in every learning opportunity.


What's your signature drink to make?
One of my favourite signature cocktails is called Kopi & Kaya. It is a local twist on the Espresso Martini. It has vodka, kaya, espresso, gula melaka, coffee liqueur and an egg. I created it for the Diageo World Class challenge in 2017 and customers loved it because it was a nice dessert drink. I love creating cocktails that pay homage to local ingredients and heritage.



A word of advice to aspiring female bartenders.
We are very fortunate to be part of a very supportive bar community where female and male bartenders are viewed as equals. There are a lot of opportunities for you if you dare to take them on. Participate in masterclasses, join competitions to expand your knowledge and challenge yourself. Don't be shy!

SASHA WIJIDESSA,
SOUS BARTENDER AT OPERATION DAGGER

Tell us how you did you end up bartending as a career?
I'm sure I'm speaking for a majority when I say bartending was never a job that a six-year-old would go "When I grow up, I want to be a bartender!".

But it sort of just happened for me. I first took it up part time during my studies as a way to get extra cash. Soon I realised I really loved and enjoyed every part of it — being in a creative space, making drinks, the creative process, interacting with people and customer service. Those things made me really happy. and if I could be happy and still make a career out of it, why not?


What are some challenges that you have faced, being a female bartender?
One of the challenges that I have faced being a female bartender is the incessant need to be defined as a female bartender — to be defined by my gender. Male bartenders are never called male bartenders, so I don't see why it shouldn't be the same for myself or other females in the industry.

While I appreciate the attention and effort and understand that it stems from greater intentions, so long as we keep going back and forth with the female label, there will always be a separation between the genders. Which in turn becomes detrimental to the cause.

However apart from that, with what I do on a day-to-day basis and within the space of my work, I have never felt like I was ever at a disadvantage.


What is the most sexist remark you have received?
Probably when I was trying to give a drink recommendation to a customer and she told me to call for one of the men instead because "they would know better".


In a male dominated industry, how do you think female bartenders can thrive and excel?
Female bartenders can thrive and excel by not limiting themselves to their gender and not let stereotypes hold them back. But also, we shouldn't put labels on industries, because women can do the job just as well as men and vice versa. I am a firm believer that where work is concerned at least, it's not about your gender, your sexuality, your race, or your religion, none of that matters. It's about how you work — regardless of who and what you are.


What's your signature drink to make? Tell us more about how that came about.
My signature drink would probably be the natural wines selection of the menu. With the natural wines, it was actually a very organic process whereby we first started out trying to give oxidized wine a second life by re-flavoring it to lower waste — an attempt at being more sustainable. It then slowly evolved into a more self-sustainable approach.


As a panelist this year for #50BestTalks, what do you think about Singapore's bar scene?
For such a tiny city, we hold 12 spots in Asia's 50 Best Bars. Aside from that we also have a couple of other local bars that do what they do and do it really well. But even with an ever-expanding bar scene, I can't think of two bars that does the exact same thing. So while there are a lot of great cocktail bars around in the small vicinity of the city, it has never once felt like we were in competition with each other, but rather have formed a close-knit community.


A word of advice to aspiring female bartenders.
In your profession you should never be defined by anything else other than how you work.
CHRISTYNE LEE,
SENIOR BARTENDER AT TESS BAR
& KITCHEN

Tell us how did you end up bartending as a career?
When I first joined the industry, I started out as a floor staff and I always looked up to the bartenders who could create their own concoctions instead of just serving the cocktails.

That was when I decided that I really wanted to expand my capabilities by getting trained behind the bar and I have never looked back since. I fell in love with bartending because I am able to be creative and make my guests happy.


What are some challenges that you have faced, being a female bartender?
It may not be obvious but bartending can be hard work. Before opening, physical strength is needed to get the bar ready like carrying cartons of spirits and also metal beer kegs. Operations on a busy night can feel like quite the marathon.

But in general, I have received a lot of support from friends, colleagues and guests, rather than suffering from any gender stereotype. Years ago, a job behind the bar was not considered to be a safe job for a woman, but now female bartenders are respected and appreciated so it's a totally different ball game.


What is the most sexist remark you have received?
It really irritates me when a male customer says "Can you make me a strong cocktail, and not a girly one". Female bartenders don't just make girly drinks.


In a male dominated industry, how do you think female bartenders can thrive and excel?
Agree or disagree, but I feel female bartenders are more approachable than our male colleagues. This allows us to easily engage with our guests and get to know their preferences better, which creates a more holistic drinking experience in a bar with an extra personal touch. We can use that to our advantage.


What is your signature drink to make?
The French Kiss, a well-balanced floral and fruity cocktail with my favourite gin, G'vine Floraison with Giffard Crème de Cassis, Giffard Rose Syrup, fresh grapefruit juice and Sauvignon Blanc.


A word of advice to aspiring female bartenders.
Being a successful bartender is tough for both men and women. Although it is still a male dominated profession, do not lose hope. Female bartenders have won just as many awards as our male counterparts. We may have to work harder to prove ourselves but never stop learning and keep innovating. Inject your own character into what you are doing and just enjoy the experience with your guests.
BANNIE KANG,
HEAD CRAFTSMAN AT ANTI:DOTE

Tell us how you did you end up bartending as a career?
My journey in bartending started unexpectedly. After graduating from university in South Korea, I had the opportunity to move to Singapore to learn English. It was during this move that I discovered my passion for bartending as a waitress in City Space back in 2010. I then returned to Seoul to pursue bartending courses at the renowned Johnnie Walker Academy and Korean International Bartending Academy. Upon completion of the courses, I returned to Singapore and continued to work at City Space with hands-on training to be a bartender before joining the Craftsman team of Anti:dote in 2013.


What are some challenges that you have faced, being a female bartender?
Initially when I started bartending, most guests preferred to order drinks from my male colleagues. Perhaps there was a misconception that a female bartender isn't as knowledgeable, or that a female standing next to a male is immediately seen as a server or hostess instead of a bartender. Today with increasingly discerning guests, there is less of such treatment when I am behind the bar.


What is the most sexist remark you have received?
Being unable to hold my liquor or incapable of making a strong drink. To me, that is a baseless over-generalisation.


In a male dominated industry, how do you think female bartenders can thrive and excel?
Be passionate in the bartending industry to tide through many challenges, as it is a physically and psychologically demanding job, requiring you to be on your feet for long hours. Taking criticism as constructive feedback might be important, but be careful not to allow anyone to belittle your ambitions or to prevent you from learning.

Having a strong support group is equally important. When I returned to Singapore in 2013, my fellow craftsmen added me to a group chat of around 40 prominent bartenders. The group has been limitlessly supportive; we invite each other to trade events, master classes, and share names of suppliers.


What's your signature drink to make?
Su Jung Gwa, which is actually a traditional Korean tea made from cinnamon, ginger, brown sugar and dried persimmon. My rendition of that is a cognac-based cocktail crafted from traditional ingredients with wolfberries, osmanthus and red dates.


As a panelist this year for #50BestTalks, what do you think about Singapore's bar scene?
Singapore's bar scene is ever so dynamic and I am proud to be part of this vibrancy that is constantly evolving. From swanky wine bars and whisky joints to whimsical speakeasies and craft beer breweries, there are plenty of choices for different experiences. Singapore has a distinctive range of strong personalities and ideas that contribute to the bustling bar scene. Each bartender has a different creative approach and practise a signature technique that becomes part of the unique bar concept.


A word of advice to aspiring female bartenders.
Don't be afraid to speak up and step up. Skills can be trained fairly quickly, however a good bartender must possess the right attitude with a passion to learn and a sense of humility. Keep up with new spirits and trends while at the same time, focus on bringing consistency in the area of drinks making. Bartenders also need to pay special attention to details such as remembering guests' preferences.
Words by Janice Sim
Portraits by Vanessa Caitlin
Cover image courtesy of Kaufmann Mercantile